I’m not a vegetarian by any
stretch. I like all kinds of meat and
fish, and sometimes they are just needed for a particular dish craving of mine. But I eat as a vegetarian much of the week –
it’s easiest when busy (not worrying about things going off), and less
expensive (I would prefer to eat much less meat and fish, but much better quality).
I think a lot of carnivores feel
a bit short-changed if they have a vegetarian plate in front of them, but I
think it’s a real shame for to not pay a little more love and attention to
vegetables – for health and environmental reasons, and just making the most of the
fabulous ingredients from the earth.
I was therefore looking forward
to Grain Store, the new King's Cross restaurant from Bruno Loubet (already at his restaurant
in The Zetter Hotel in Clerkenwell), where he is giving humble vegetables an
equal billing. There are vegan and vegetarian
dishes, but also those with meat and fish – it’s nice to see it listed last,
rather than first on the menu.
It’s a beautiful bright and airy
room, with an open kitchen that seemed rather serene. We started with fantastic onion bread with crème
fraiche butter, and a soft, salty focaccia with dukka.
I had the light and summery chilled
clear lobster ‘Bloody Mary’, with the broth poured from a cocktail shaker over
the sweet lobster and tomato. We also
had the sprouting beans and seeds with miso aubergine puree, salty crispy
chicken skin and crunchy potato wafer, and the special of lobster and
fennel.
From the mains, we had the corn
and quinoa tomales (sweetly tucked back in the corn husk) with a punchy salsa
and tender pork belly, and a mushroom risotto special rich with truffle. I went for the young leaves, runner beans and
pistachio salad with juicy chermoula grilled quail, fragrant with cumin and coriander
seed (I think).
Our puddings included an apricot
tart, and a white chocolate rice crispy with a cloud of chocolate mousse, both
with an intensely almondy ice-cream. The
other ice-creams were perfect too – a creamy peanut butter, and a tangy yoghurt
and cardamom (I love cardamon in sweet things).
I thought the food was fresh,
innovative and delicious – it’s also reasonably priced (most starters around £6,
awith the mains around the £15 mark).
The service was also great – the pastry chef even came over from his
little pudding station in the corner to give us a taste of the lime and mint
sorbet.
The drinks are by Tony Conigliaro
(also at my favourite bars – 69 Colebrooke Row, and The Zetter Townhouse), so
unsurprisingly excellent (I had the Tuberose Collins, perfect for the 30 degree
heat outside on Tuesday). There is a separate bar you can sit at, and
they also do a great sounding brunch (inc honey and pistachio roasted apricots,
pancakes, seeded scones, and spinach Welsh rarebit among other things), so lots
of reasons to come back (especially to get some of your all important 5 a day).
It's definitely one of my new favourite places in London.