Foxlow is billed as a new neighbourhood restaurant. It’s on St John Street in Clerkenwell, so luckily it’s in my neighbourhood.
Space might be a bit of a premium living in EC1M, but I love the food and drink nearby. For drinks, it’s the Zetter Townhouse for fabulous cocktails in even more fabulously over the top surroundings, or late night pisco sours at Giant Robot. There’s the decadent lobster roll at Burger & Lobster, always excellent meatballs at the cosy Polpo, or fragrant and spicy brunch at the Modern Pantry. I haven’t quite made it to Smithfield meat market at 4am to buy food. It will happen at some point, maybe not when it's so cold and dark.
Foxlow is a brilliant new addition. It’s from the Hawksmoor people – there’s still steaks, with the cuts chalked up on the blackboard each day. The other meats are divided into slow smoked or charcoal grilled on their menu, with interesting cuts on offer. There’s also a beautiful salad bar gleaming next to the kitchen pass.
From the starters, we had the perfect five pepper squid (£7), with slivers of tiny, tiny limes and red chilli – crisp but really tender, with no rubbery-ness at all. The pork rillettes (£6.50) were soft, rich and fatty (by nature of the dish), with little sharp pickles and sourdough.
There was more pig with the mains. The eight hour bacon and chilli bacon rib (£16) was sticky and smoky, and a delicious new way with bacon that I haven’t tried before. The Iberico Pluma (£16) was gently charred on the outside, blushing inside – you can serve this pork medium, and the flavour was incredible.
On the sides we had fries, with bacon salt sprinkled on top to really add to the pig overload – sweet/salty/smoky on top of the crispy fries. We also tried the dripping potatoes with gubbeen cheese and capers. The salad bar helped offset some of this – we had lemon carrots and fennel, for some much-needed vegetables. I confused myself through not listening, but I think you can select different things from the salad bar, but it’s not help yourself.
After starting with their take on the bloody Mary (a Smokestack Mary with gin, tomato, smoked paprika and peated scotch – not as scarily smoky as it sounds), and all the above food, we were stuffed. If we do have room, there’s soft-serve ice-cream in different guises (I think there was an option with bourbon, maybe one with peanuts too).